Easter 22

9th April 22: Bailed on plan for Green Gully as teams struggling on bottom pitch of Glover’s seemed to confirm reports of powder; climbers in Green Gully were making slow progress. Ledge Route as consolation was great value with good snow to be found on the margins and a steep traverse instead of gaining the ridge after the fin.

10th April: Binnein Mòr

11th April: windy af walk along WH way.

12th April: Thaw so Ring of Steall, then tea with Adele & Jim.

On the compass frequently

13th April: moved to Shiel Bridge campsite

14th April: over the Ratagan Pass to walk Creag Bealach na h Oidhche & Beinn a’ Chapuill.

Found this cool craft brewery near Glenelg: https://www.dunbrewing.co.uk/thedunninn

15th April: Forcan Ridge

16th April: moved to Skye and climbed at Neist Point with random guy we met on Sheil Bridge campsite. Seagulls VS4c then Craig led Robert The Bruce S4b.

17th April:

We live here now with Vic & Tim
. . overlooking the Cuillin
Coastal mooch

18th April: bailed on climbing at Neist in force 5.

19th April: Elgol to Coruisk with Jenny & Tim mad sprint across Britain’s shortest (but not shallowest) river to catch our boat back.

Camasunary approach
Jenny the little hero goes back to lend shoe
Bad step
. . and relax

20th April: In Pinn, Timmeh’s lead. Met a ‘guide’ at the base, so quotable: ‘Mind if i jump in on front,  I’ve got 2 clients on the ridge getting cold and anxious?’ ‘No need for stickies on the Pinn,’ ‘Chalk makes your hands soft and cold,’ ‘Need any help girls?’ ‘You’ve got to start somewhere,’ ‘ ‘I was up here yesterday with a bunch of soldiers in the rain, ‘ ‘I use figure of 9, its stronger, ‘ (even though he attached both clients with krabs, erm. . . cross-load risk?), ‘The Pinn is getting wrecked by people putting too much gear in.’ Needless to say Tim and ‘the girls’ abseiled off his ego.

Timmeh topping, ‘guide’ pausing to buff his machismo
Yeah Vic

21st April: Jenny & I did the 4 tops of Sgurr a Mhadaidh (took rope/small rack but soloed). Up Coire an Dorus then down from Bealach a Glaich Moire after false start due to the path a) not being down the words Beallach and b) not being marked on the 1:12 or 1:50. Walked out on the fairy pool erosion highway.

Descending Sgurr a Mhadaidh main summit
Passing through nick after the summit looked easier and more fun than the slabby alternative
3rd top direct scramble looked improbable but was fine, similarly the Diff up the 2nd top
‘Awkward’ moves into/out of nick before 1st top no bother then easy ground to next bealach

22nd April: Bruach na Frithe by NW Ridge, Naismith’s and King’s Cave ab on the Basteir Tooth and out via Fionn Choire.

Good scrambling up Bruach na Frithe
Jenny, Vic & Tim on East Ridge of Bruach na Frithe approaching the Basteir
Louis, Tim, Jenny ©️ Vic
Naismith’s
King’s Cave Chimney

23rd April: Western Drainpipe Ridge HS4b on Practice Buttress, Coire Lagan approach.

24th April: Grooved Arête VS4b on Rannoch Wall. Met Ed & Toby who kept us amused.

2nd pitch ©️ Jenny
Jenny about to enter the fridge of the 2nd belay

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